In my work I do a fair bit of hewing with an axe/hatchet (I often use those terms interchangeably, I’ve seen a hatchet referred to as a “hand-axe”...presumably shortened from one-hand-axe).
Andrew & Keith (& others) - it's a huge subject, but some pertinent points are these. The back of a single-bevel axe is slightly curved, very slight. And yes, that's the surface that is on the face of the board you're hewing. I find when hewing edges of boards either version of an axe works about the same. On the wider faces I much prefer a single-bevel hatchet. So for something like a panel in frame and panel work - can be as little as 6" wide, but up to 12" wide - easier to hew that face flat with a single bevel tool because of the way it hugs the board's face. You've got more of the axe's weight behind the cutting edge. With a single-bevel axe, the head is tilted out a bit to keep the bevel riding along that face. So, like so many things, it's all in the wrist. yea, right...
I purchased one from JoJo when taking one of her classes. It's a great axe and I use it when teaching or traveling. I prefer the single bevel axe I had forged from Slovenia by Don. Of the two I still prefer the Wood Tool handle. Great grip.
I own one of their axes and really like it. It's always good to buy from craftspersons (not sure if that is a word) who respect the traditions and pay attention to the quality of their work.
I got to see one of these over the summer, and it looks excellent. I wasn't aware they were Sheffield made, which is fantastic. I think Robin imported the heads of his earlier axes, and heat treated and finished them.
I've been looking at one of these since trying one at the Milan, MN Spoon Gathering! A video about Robin was what first introduced me to greenwood, so I figured getting an axe from him and JoJo would be fitting.
I bought the small carving axe when Jojo taught in Plymouth a few years ago. It's a fantastic axe. Its light and won't tire you out. It's a steal at its price too!
Thanks for your candid review Peter. I have Robin’s original carving axe which is quite good. When I took a spoon course at LAP with JoJo several years ago she was experimenting with the new design. This new Robin/ JoJo Wood Woodcarver’s axe looks to be great like their other tools, and you have given it your expert’s appreciation, so I ordered one. Much appreciated.
Well I have the small Robin Wood Carving Axe (bought through Lee Valley a few years ago) and it was a revelation to me how sharp an axe/hatchet could be. And with the big flat bevels its easy for me to sharpen . It’s a joy for small stuff like spoons. This new one looks even better.
I always wanted to find you the head of a Pennsylvania German goosewing single bevel ax, because i thought there might be a use for choking up behind the ax head. But I was also aware that you don't like having people give you tools.
Counting myself among those who have "never used a single-bevel hatchet then you won’t know any different" ... I'm curious to know: What's the proper (single) bevel orientation for a right handed and what does that single bevel give you that's different or better than a double bevel when hewing?
I'm also new, but I believe you can register the flat "back" against the wood and more easily for the purposes of flattening stock for planing. The handle, edge, and direction you want the split to go are also all in-line, rather than canted a bit to accommodate the bevel on the inside of the cut.
Andrew & Keith (& others) - it's a huge subject, but some pertinent points are these. The back of a single-bevel axe is slightly curved, very slight. And yes, that's the surface that is on the face of the board you're hewing. I find when hewing edges of boards either version of an axe works about the same. On the wider faces I much prefer a single-bevel hatchet. So for something like a panel in frame and panel work - can be as little as 6" wide, but up to 12" wide - easier to hew that face flat with a single bevel tool because of the way it hugs the board's face. You've got more of the axe's weight behind the cutting edge. With a single-bevel axe, the head is tilted out a bit to keep the bevel riding along that face. So, like so many things, it's all in the wrist. yea, right...
I purchased one from JoJo when taking one of her classes. It's a great axe and I use it when teaching or traveling. I prefer the single bevel axe I had forged from Slovenia by Don. Of the two I still prefer the Wood Tool handle. Great grip.
I own one of their axes and really like it. It's always good to buy from craftspersons (not sure if that is a word) who respect the traditions and pay attention to the quality of their work.
I got to see one of these over the summer, and it looks excellent. I wasn't aware they were Sheffield made, which is fantastic. I think Robin imported the heads of his earlier axes, and heat treated and finished them.
Nice axe. I also see that shipping costs have begun to normalize since Brexit. Maybe it's time to peruse some hedgelaying tools again.
I've been looking at one of these since trying one at the Milan, MN Spoon Gathering! A video about Robin was what first introduced me to greenwood, so I figured getting an axe from him and JoJo would be fitting.
I bought the small carving axe when Jojo taught in Plymouth a few years ago. It's a fantastic axe. Its light and won't tire you out. It's a steal at its price too!
Thanks for your candid review Peter. I have Robin’s original carving axe which is quite good. When I took a spoon course at LAP with JoJo several years ago she was experimenting with the new design. This new Robin/ JoJo Wood Woodcarver’s axe looks to be great like their other tools, and you have given it your expert’s appreciation, so I ordered one. Much appreciated.
Cheers,
Michael
Well I have the small Robin Wood Carving Axe (bought through Lee Valley a few years ago) and it was a revelation to me how sharp an axe/hatchet could be. And with the big flat bevels its easy for me to sharpen . It’s a joy for small stuff like spoons. This new one looks even better.
I always wanted to find you the head of a Pennsylvania German goosewing single bevel ax, because i thought there might be a use for choking up behind the ax head. But I was also aware that you don't like having people give you tools.
Counting myself among those who have "never used a single-bevel hatchet then you won’t know any different" ... I'm curious to know: What's the proper (single) bevel orientation for a right handed and what does that single bevel give you that's different or better than a double bevel when hewing?
I'm also new, but I believe you can register the flat "back" against the wood and more easily for the purposes of flattening stock for planing. The handle, edge, and direction you want the split to go are also all in-line, rather than canted a bit to accommodate the bevel on the inside of the cut.