Way back, in the early JA ladderback courses at Country Workshops, we sent class participants home with a chair frame only, no woven seat. Basically, we ran out of time, and there wasn't a source for procuring hickory bark. We also had a collection of alternate seating materials, including Shaker tape, imitation (paper based) hickory, AND tulip poplar bark - which we knew of, but had never tried using. In 2017 one of those early chair students, Jack Ruttle, phoned me to say that his chair was in daily use, and that he had used poplar bark. Jack said that it was still looking good, with no problems. So I had to try it. Seven years later my poplar bark seat is also looking good.
Prep and technique is exactly the same as with hickory, but you have to be extra careful not to slice through the poplar when prepping the material. Also, the rungs should be smoothed with a scraper or sandpaper in areas where the bark wraps around the rungs. If you leave little flats from a spokeshave, the tiny shaved ridges will cause slight ripples on the exposed surface of the bark.
Hickory bark looks better, but tulip poplar bark is much more available in some areas. Like where we live. There's more details on how I did this in the current Lost art Press edition of my book, Country Woodcraft: Then & Now.
Thanks Drew - I was one of those "sent home with a chair frame only" early students! I don't know why I always need reminding about tulip poplar bark. One day it will sink in. I first did this diamond pattern in 2-colors of Shaker tape. Then the design is instantly visible.
Way back, in the early JA ladderback courses at Country Workshops, we sent class participants home with a chair frame only, no woven seat. Basically, we ran out of time, and there wasn't a source for procuring hickory bark. We also had a collection of alternate seating materials, including Shaker tape, imitation (paper based) hickory, AND tulip poplar bark - which we knew of, but had never tried using. In 2017 one of those early chair students, Jack Ruttle, phoned me to say that his chair was in daily use, and that he had used poplar bark. Jack said that it was still looking good, with no problems. So I had to try it. Seven years later my poplar bark seat is also looking good.
Prep and technique is exactly the same as with hickory, but you have to be extra careful not to slice through the poplar when prepping the material. Also, the rungs should be smoothed with a scraper or sandpaper in areas where the bark wraps around the rungs. If you leave little flats from a spokeshave, the tiny shaved ridges will cause slight ripples on the exposed surface of the bark.
Hickory bark looks better, but tulip poplar bark is much more available in some areas. Like where we live. There's more details on how I did this in the current Lost art Press edition of my book, Country Woodcraft: Then & Now.
Thanks Drew - I was one of those "sent home with a chair frame only" early students! I don't know why I always need reminding about tulip poplar bark. One day it will sink in. I first did this diamond pattern in 2-colors of Shaker tape. Then the design is instantly visible.